Ten Thousand Things
Multicultural Webfinds

"Ten Thousand Things" is a Buddhist expression representing the dynamic interconnection and simultaneous unity and diversity of everything in the universe.

Where Foreigners are More Than Welcome: Shiraishi Island & Okayama's International Villages Threatened by Budget Cuts

by Jean Miyake Downey, Sept. 17, 2008


* Please Help Save Shiraishi Island & Other Okayama Prefecture International Villas *

One of the most idealistic and generous manifestations of Japan's "Golden Age of Internationalization" – subsidized by the now long-gone Bubble Economy – has to be Okayama Prefecture's International Villas. Created by Okayama government to share traditional, rural Japan with foreign residents, the villas are located throughout the prefecture in countryside, non-tourist settings.

Humorist and entrepreneur Amy Chavez moved to Shiraishi Island, after staying at the international villa there for a few weeks all alone during a beautiful late winter. She fell in love with the idyllic island, a fishing community with no cars, imbued with folk culture, and neighborly friendliness. Her writings about Shiraishi's individualistic residents, the traditional rhythms of the lives of fisher people, and the island's mini-Henro (Shikoku pilgrimage tour) – which she and her partner, Paul, recovered from disuse and overgrowth – are the most lyrical topics in her newspaper column.

After reading Amy's description of a view of the Inland Sea from a mountaintop shrine, I found another report by Japan Times writer Eric Johnston, who is usually restrained in his tone, describing the same views from Shiraishi as "stunning." Magnetized by Amy's and Eric's descriptions, I knew I had to go to Shiraishi and I was not disappointed.

This is one of the dream-like views from the first mountaintop Amy guided me to within my first hour on the island:

Because of Eric Johnston's description of the "airy" International Villa, I booked a room there and was surprised
that the cost is only ¥2,500/night per person, along with a membership fee of ¥500. I paid an extra ¥500/night for a single room, even though I was the only person in the building -- because it was worth much more as
my ideal private quiet retreat.

I had planned to stay only one night, but instead I stayed for 3 days, using its lovely kitchen, and free laundry room, while listening to "Songs of the Inland Sea" on the CD player when I was inside the villa. Most of the time I spent mountain climbing – wandering through the narrow streets of the village, graced with lovingly cultivated gardens, orange trees, and traditional architecture – bicycling on one of the villa's bicycles – and pilgrimaging with Amy. I didn't want to leave, and would have stayed longer, but I had to return to Tokyo to catch a plane.

Views of the Inland Sea from the deck

View from bathroom

Eric's 2005 Japan Times article, "Reliving the good life in the country" describes not only the International Villa at Shiraishi Island, but also the four other International Villas throughout Okayama prefecture:

• Ushimado International Villa, also on the Inland Sea, is near the Bizen pottery center. The website tells a bit of this area's rich history: "Situated along one of Asia's most important trading routes, this ancient fishing village served as a haven for travelers from Korea."

• Fukiya International Villa, that Eric describes as a "traditional postcard image of Japan" because of the architecture of this former copper mining town. He adds: "The streets are lined with old-style wooden homes and storefronts, and the surrounding countryside is especially colorful in the spring and autumn, when many people visit."

train ride to Takebe

• Takebe International Villa, located next to a village onsen/store center (smelling of oranges set out for sale) where the proprietor and the staff are so warm, I didn't mind the fact that the villa and my room were very well worn (wabi-sabi hostel style), and that the onsen, with breathtaking river views from floor to ceiling windows, did not compare to others I have been to in terms of amenities. Instead, my heart opened up to the friendly and talkative proprietor and the country women and children I met at the onsen, and to the slow, quiet rhythms of this rural part of Japan. I experienced a "forever" moment in the outside onsen, marveling at the shimmering reflection of the moonlight on the river rushing next to the onsen and villa.

Takebe's community onsen

River next to the onsen

• Hattoji Villa is a pastoral place in which the villa is a traditional Japanese farmhouse ("minka"). This wonderful space was the model for the farmhouse in Miyazaki's Tottoro and the setting for another film, Imamura's Black Rain. The International Villa website says that Hattoji "thrived over 1200 years ago as a center of Sangaku "mountain" Buddhism, followers of which lead an ascetic life in an effort to purify themselves of society's excesses. Dating from 728, monks gathered here at the base of Mt. Hattoji (elevation 539m) and built an impressive complex of temples, monasteries and accompanying buildings."

Sadly, these wonderful, Okayama government-supported offerings of the best of rural, traditional Okayama to foreign residents are at risk of being closed because the prefecture is experiencing a financial crisis. This month, the prefectural government will be deciding the fate of the villas, and are taking into consideration the opinions of foreign residents until September 26.

I don't think there's anything like the Okayama International Villas anywhere else in the world – in terms of sharing history, landscape and culture with foreign residents and tourists at this level of openness and generosity of spirit and pocketbook. The rates for students and trainees are as low as ¥2000/night. So, for all of you who have enjoyed or who would like to enjoy the gracious hospitality and open and welcoming spirit of Okayama Prefecture, please consider sharing your views and appreciation with its government officials.
Perhaps they can raise their rates (which are way below-cost, in consideration of students, trainees, and tourists on a budget) to help meet the operating costs of the villas. It would be sad to see these villas gone – they have to be one of the world's best examples of "internationalization" – motivated by the best reasons – not for profit – but for a desire to create genuine understanding and exchange.

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